Skip to content
New issue

Have a question about this project? Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community.

By clicking “Sign up for GitHub”, you agree to our terms of service and privacy statement. We’ll occasionally send you account related emails.

Already on GitHub? Sign in to your account

new hardware Teckin SP22 v1.4 #3950

Closed
Clooney82 opened this issue Oct 1, 2018 · 124 comments
Closed

new hardware Teckin SP22 v1.4 #3950

Clooney82 opened this issue Oct 1, 2018 · 124 comments
Labels
awaiting feedback Action - Waiting for response or more information enhancement Type - Enhancement that will be worked on

Comments

@Clooney82
Copy link

Hello together,

just bought a 4pack of Teckin SP22 because, I knew they were identical to Blitzwolf SHP2 / Gosund SP1.
I´ll got them yesterday an recognized that there is a new Version of them out now.

  1. The are no more screwed together
  2. New HW Layout. TYWE2S based

Layout of new HW:
img_7789
img_7794

TYWE2S:
img_7790
img_7792

Details:
img_7796
img_7797

img_7795
img_7798

Good new is, that i managed to get them to work.
For flashing I used this page: https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/CE-Smart-Home---LA-WF3-Wifi-Plug-(TYWE2S)

For basic feature I used a generic board in configuration
GPIO1 Button 1
GPIO3 Led2i
GPIO13 Led1i
GPIO14 Relay1

after this was working I tried to figure out power measuring feature.
In sonoff_template.h I added a new entrie of for the Teckin based on the Blitzwolf setup.
After a few tried I got a working one.

{ "TECKIN SP22v1.4", // https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07D5V139R
GPIO_USER, // GPIO00 Red Led (1 = On, 0 = Off)
GPIO_KEY1, // GPIO01 Serial TXD and Button
GPIO_USER, // GPIO02 Blue Led (1 = On, 0 = Off)
GPIO_LED2_INV, // GPIO03 Serial RXD and Red Led (1 = On, 0 = Off)
GPIO_HLW_CF, // GPIO04 BL0937 or HJL-01 CF power
GPIO_HLW_CF1, // GPIO05 BL0937 or HJL-01 CF1 voltage / current
0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, // Flash connection
GPIO_HLW_SEL, // GPIO12 BL0937 or HJL-01 Sel output
GPIO_LED1_INV, // GPIO13 Blue Led (1 = On, 0 = Off)
GPIO_REL1, // GPIO14 Relay (0 = Off, 1 = On)
0, 0, 0
}

Only Voltage was not shown correctly, so I calibrated it via console an VoltageSet

Hope this one will get official support.

BR, Jochen

@andrethomas
Copy link
Contributor

Nice

Also see they have a nice way of installing a fuse inside the device ;)
image

arendst added a commit that referenced this issue Oct 1, 2018
 * Add support for OBI Power Socket (#1988, #3944)
 * Add support for Teckin Power Socket with Energy Monitoring (#3950)
@arendst
Copy link
Owner

arendst commented Oct 1, 2018

Pls give it a try and let me know if the power monitoring works as expected.

@ascillato2 ascillato2 added enhancement Type - Enhancement that will be worked on awaiting feedback Action - Waiting for response or more information labels Oct 1, 2018
@Clooney82
Copy link
Author

Hi,
just tested your new Version, but it gives very strange power values.
So I compared your new Version and mine. Found out, that I use HJL based Values and you HLW Values.
After changings this, it looked good, only Voltage calibration needed to:

07:49:04 CMD: VoltageSet 232.5
07:49:04 MQT: stat/sonoffplug03/RESULT = {"VoltageSetCal":1725}

xnrg_01_hlw8012.ino
Line 182

  if (BLITZWOLF_BWSHP2 == Settings.module) {
    hlw_power_ratio = HJL_PREF;
    hlw_voltage_ratio = HJL_UREF;
    hlw_current_ratio = HJL_IREF;
    hlw_ui_flag = HJL_SEL_VOLTAGE;
  } else {
    hlw_power_ratio = HLW_PREF;

changed to

  if (BLITZWOLF_BWSHP2 == Settings.module || TECKIN == Settings.module) {

arendst added a commit that referenced this issue Oct 2, 2018
Fix Teckin energy monitoring (#3950)
@arendst
Copy link
Owner

arendst commented Oct 2, 2018

Thx. Just fixed.

@arendst arendst closed this as completed Oct 2, 2018
@Clooney82
Copy link
Author

thanks, works great now.

@andrethomas
Copy link
Contributor

@Clooney82 Awesome - if you have time please add some wiki information for this device so that other users can also use it easily. Thanks!

@docbobo
Copy link

docbobo commented Oct 8, 2018

@Clooney82, did you find a non-destructive way to open them up?

@MJP-76
Copy link

MJP-76 commented Oct 8, 2018

Has anyone worked on the SP23 version?

@Clooney82
Copy link
Author

Clooney82 commented Oct 8, 2018

@docbobo
Not completly, but you can use a flat screwdriver to get between both housing parts an lift it up until it „cracks“ the glue an than all around. With this was only one part of the housing is damaged. After opening you can Heat it up and form it back, so you don‘t see much damage. I also put a bit glue in the middle of all 4 sides after flashing worked to keep it closed and secured.

@pauledd
Copy link

pauledd commented Oct 27, 2018

@Clooney82 Hi,
the flash page you mentioned states I have to ground GPIO0 to flash the device...
Where exactly is GPIO0? Do they mean "IO0"?
I ask because the "official" documentation only contains GPIO_4,GPIO_5,GPIO_13...
https://fccid.io/2ANDL-TYWE2S/User-Manual/Users-Manual-3596121

EDIT: and some more questions arose...:
how did you erease_flash?
Did you use tasmota_minimal tasmota_full binary to flash?
How did you flash? With Arduino IDE or with something else?

@pauledd
Copy link

pauledd commented Oct 27, 2018

So I just connected 3.3V, GND, RX & TX to my USB2TTL adapter... RX to TX and TX to RX...
20181027_165215

Is it possible to verify that the serial connection is successful?
If I open a terminal (screen /dev/ttyUSB0) and I connect the 3.3V to the board I get a line of garbled characters printed. If I press the button on the board while connecting the power I dont get any output..

@pauledd
Copy link

pauledd commented Oct 28, 2018

Ok I made some progress...
The problem was I did not disconnect the whole USB-Serial adapter but only the 3,3V cable...
As I wired "IO0" to GND, plugged in the USB-Serial adapter and issuing the command to first read the flash memory for backup:

sudo esptool.py --port /dev/ttyUSB0 read_flash 0x00000 0x100000 image1M.bin
esptool.py v2.6-beta1
Serial port /dev/ttyUSB0
Connecting....
Detecting chip type... ESP8266
Chip is ESP8285
Features: WiFi, Embedded Flash
MAC: dc:4f:22:xx:xx:xx
Uploading stub...
Running stub...
Stub running...
^[[C1048576 (100 %)
1048576 (100 %)
Read 1048576 bytes at 0x0 in 94.2 seconds (89.0 kbit/s)...
Hard resetting via RTS pin...

So far... going into flash mode again...
Then I erased the flash

sudo esptool.py --port /dev/ttyUSB0 erase_flash
esptool.py v2.6-beta1
Serial port /dev/ttyUSB0
Connecting....
Detecting chip type... ESP8266
Chip is ESP8285
Features: WiFi, Embedded Flash
MAC: dc:4f:22:xx:xx:xx
Uploading stub...
Running stub...
Stub running...
Erasing flash (this may take a while)...
Chip erase completed successfully in 3.6s
Hard resetting via RTS pin...

going into flash mode again...
Then I flashed the "sonoff-minimal.bin":

sudo esptool.py --port /dev/ttyUSB0 write_flash -fs 1MB -fm dout 0x0 sonoff-minimal.bin 
esptool.py v2.6-beta1
Serial port /dev/ttyUSB0
Connecting....
Detecting chip type... ESP8266
Chip is ESP8285
Features: WiFi, Embedded Flash
MAC: dc:4f:22:xx:xx:xx
Uploading stub...
Running stub...
Stub running...
Configuring flash size...
Compressed 346240 bytes to 246184...
Wrote 346240 bytes (246184 compressed) at 0x00000000 in 22.7 seconds (effective 121.9 kbit/s)...
Hash of data verified.

Leaving...
Hard resetting via RTS pin...

going into flash mode again...
Then I flashed the "sonoff.bin":

sudo esptool.py --port /dev/ttyUSB0 write_flash -fs 1MB -fm dout 0x0 sonoff.bin 
esptool.py v2.6-beta1
Serial port /dev/ttyUSB0
Connecting....
Detecting chip type... ESP8266
Chip is ESP8285
Features: WiFi, Embedded Flash
MAC: dc:4f:22:xx:xx:xx
Uploading stub...
Running stub...
Stub running...
Configuring flash size...
Compressed 482512 bytes to 330006...
Wrote 482512 bytes (330006 compressed) at 0x00000000 in 30.2 seconds (effective 127.7 kbit/s)...
Hash of data verified.

Leaving...
Hard resetting via RTS pin...

Then I disconnected power and reconnected power but nothing
happens if I press the button...
Do I have to reassemble the plug and test it on mains ac?
Or should it work with 3.3V too?

@pauledd
Copy link

pauledd commented Oct 28, 2018

Well I guess I have to compile a customized binary instead of using the pre-compiled ones?

@pauledd
Copy link

pauledd commented Oct 29, 2018

Sorry for polluting this thread. I made more progress.
My device is now running the new firmware. The problem was maybe a power/voltage issue and binary issue.
Since I powered the 3.3V from my lab power supply and not from my USB-TTY Adapter the device
started to blink blue. Of cause I shared the same ground from my lab power suppl. to the USB-Programmer. It showed as a new wifi device on my android phone but seemed to be in a boot loop because it disappeared ever 4 secs. I then compiled the binary myself with arduino ide.

I made changes as @Clooney82 described in his first post in the file Sonoff_template.h,
added the new Teckin section and also added the two new GPIOS GPIO_HLW_CF1,
GPIO_HLW_SEL in "ProgramSelectablePins" at the end but before "GPIO_MAX".
I also added "TECKIN22P" in "SupportedModules" at the end but before "MAXMODULE".

Then I added my AP details in my_user_config.h, compiled and erased and flashed and then the device was reachable in my LAN. I will now reassemble the plug and see if everything else works.

@pauledd
Copy link

pauledd commented Oct 29, 2018

The plug works now on AC, I can switch it. But how can I show power consumption? There is no such option in the web interface...

@pauledd
Copy link

pauledd commented Oct 29, 2018

Problem solved: #4204
mission accomplished.
bye

@philipp2310
Copy link

philipp2310 commented Oct 29, 2018

Is there any chance to flash it "over the air"?
The two sp22 I got don't even offer a smallest slit to get the housing open :/

with plenty force and hot air, I got it open (quite ugly...)
unfortunatelly I get now:
A fatal error occurred: Failed to connect to Espressif device: Invalid head of packet (0xDE)
with a lots of this inbetween:
Connecting...TRACE +0.000 command op=0x08 data len=36 wait_response=1 timeout=0.100 data=
0707122055555555 5555555555555555 | ... UUUUUUUUUUUU
5555555555555555 5555555555555555 | UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
55555555 | UUUU
TRACE +0.001 Write 46 bytes:
c000082400000000 0007071220555555 | ...$........ UUU
5555555555555555 5555555555555555 | UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
5555555555555555 5555555555c0 | UUUUUUUUUUUUU.
TRACE +0.001 Read 1 bytes: f0
TRACE +0.000 Read invalid data: f0
(using 2 raspi, because one will always reboot when i connect 3.3V to the chip)

@philipp2310
Copy link

philipp2310 commented Nov 1, 2018

I now added an external power supply (old PCs psu 3.3V) but still get exactly the same problem.
baud is already extreme low(960) but no real difference.

When I change RX/TX I just get a timeout, so it should be correct. Any Idea?
I don't really want to use the same ground for both(raspi is at a powerbank atm ;>), might that be the problem?

Edit:
Finally one step further, now I am at a write timeout (port should be left empty if you are not 100% sure, no idea why i got a response anyways!)
Edit2:
I found one problem: one of the connections to the chip was not connected (i was not soldering there so i guess it was that way ._.
Now I got a red led (with one combination of the RX/TX) when I start with the button pressed. When I start without pressing the button it only flashes for a second(red as well)

@ocl80
Copy link

ocl80 commented Nov 5, 2018

@matthewjporter
Here is the ESP module in the SP23 (UK version). Just flashed it successfully. To get at the pins on the module, you need to unsolder the Live & Neutral connections on the main PCB so you can remove the PCB from the base.
teckin_sp23_uk

@MJP-76
Copy link

MJP-76 commented Nov 6, 2018

@matthewjporter
Here is the ESP module in the SP23 (UK version). Just flashed it successfully. To get at the pins on the module, you need to unsolder the Live & Neutral connections on the main PCB so you can remove the PCB from the base.

@ocl80 Thanks for the update, Will give it a bash

How did you get it open, Hot air gun and sharp edge tool i guess, did it destroy the case?

Does it still do the power monitoring?

Cheers

@ocl80
Copy link

ocl80 commented Nov 6, 2018

@matthewjporter I don't have a hot air gun so just a sharp edge tool in my case. I might have been lucky, but with a bit of patience it opened nicely and you wouldn't know now it is back together.
In Tasmota it is configured as a BlitzWolf SHP2, and the energy & power metrics seem to work, although on mine the voltage is off somewhat.

image

@MJP-76
Copy link

MJP-76 commented Nov 7, 2018

Hi All

Just to update on the "dismantling" of the Teckin SP23. I have taken some pics as I go as it may help so here they are:

This is the Unit I have and is currently on Amazon and at £10 each is not bad for a power monitoring plug https://www.amazon.co.uk/TECKIN-Monitoring-Function-Anywhere-Required/dp/B07D7BH6N8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541589149&sr=8-1&keywords=teckin
2018-11-07 10 25 07

2018-11-07 10 25 12

This is what I used to get into it (Heat gun helped as it is glued together on the edges)
2018-11-07 11 07 01

Only slight damage to the edging but heat gun will fix when closing up
2018-11-07 10 11 18

This is what I found on the inside. This seems to be a new design!
2018-11-07 10 12 17
2018-11-07 10 12 28
2018-11-07 10 22 37

I noticed that it is not using the TYWE2S chip, but is still esp8266 based

After de-soldering the Live & Neutral the board came right off
2018-11-07 10 43 14
2018-11-07 10 43 18
2018-11-07 10 42 58
2018-11-07 10 43 02
2018-11-07 10 43 09

Next steps are a work in progress:

  1. line up the board and cut a hole in the bottom
  2. Make a template to drill holes for my other units to avoid opening up
    2018-11-07 11 18 34
  3. Figure out what is what on this new chip and which is GND, TX, RX & GPIO0

Hope this helps right now for anyone else looking at updating these units

@BubbaFatAss
Copy link

Hi there,

I also bought a 4 pack of SP23's from Amazon, and was annoyed to find that they were sealed shut. I didn't do as good a job as you did about opening them, but in case you haven't got the pinouts yet, I've worked these out and have flashed mine with the standard SHP2 binary of Espurna which works nicely for me. The pinouts are as follows:
sp23 pinout
Sorry, I forgot to mark which of the two pads were RX or TX, but at least that's usually easy to swap round, and they're to nice easily identifiable solder pads. I have three more to flash, so I'll update this with the correct RX and TX pins when I do the next one.

Cheers

Andy

@evaluationevaluation
Copy link

Hi,

just tried to flash my 2 Slitinto Model NX-SP202 (Dual Outlet) using tuya-convert.
Used VM-Ware image of Kali Linux 2019.1
Installed requirements using ./install_prereq-sh and installed missing npm using apt-get install npm

So far managed to flash one of the two with Tasmota image shipped with tuya-convert.

Now my 2 questions:

  1. really don't know why the second does not want to get flashed. Tried the fast and slow blinking mode and restarted the start_flash.sh several times and waited quite long... nothing happens. The log files are fine and also observed the 4 different SCREEN sessions. My android connects well to the access point but this is the only reaction in the 4 SCREEN sessions.
    Is there a possibility to find out why my second Slitinto does not connect?
    Should I see the section "sending packets and waiting 60 seconds" every 60 seconds again? I see it only once...

  2. What Tasmota configuration does you use for Slitinto Dual Outlets?
    I selected "Generic (18)" as Module Type and found out that

  • Button1 is on GPIO0
  • Button2 is on GPIO16
  • Relay1 is on GPIO15
  • Relay2 is on GPIO14
    But then I don't see metering information.
    Do I need to flash a different Tasmota Version or is there a better "base module" to configure Slitinto devices?
    In Tasmota WIKI "Templates" I saw example for Blitzwolf with GPIO5 selected as "BL0937", but in Generic Module I cannot select such a function.
    What is the trick to get Slitinto fully working with 2xButtons,2xLEDs,2xRelays and Metering Sensors?

Your help is really appreciated and I want to thank everyone who can point me to the right direction or even give me the final solution.

@spock64
Copy link
Contributor

spock64 commented Feb 24, 2019 via email

@evaluationevaluation
Copy link

Hi,

thank you very much for your quick answer.
Yes, I use stop_flash between the trials. Also rebooted the machine several times in between to be sure that all is fine again.

Will have a closer look at the template facility. Found the wiki article with the example of Blitzwolf and just wanted to select the mentioned entries in the web config...
Will try to find out if my knowledge is enough to create my own template and upload a custom made image... at least for the first of my modules.

Any further ideas to find out why my second item denies to get in contact with tuya-convert?
Do I have to take care about a special timing when starting tuya-convert or should it be sufficient to simply start tuya-convert, plug in the device and start blinking and just wait some minutes?
Can I see somewhere whether tuya-convert resends connection packages every 60 seconds or not?

@spock64
Copy link
Contributor

spock64 commented Feb 24, 2019 via email

@evaluationevaluation
Copy link

f**k, got contact by a trick but network connection had an issue and now the device blinks slowly without any other reaction. Button press does not seem to have an effect. Long press does not work anymore.
Did I brick it? Any trick to unbrick?

Trick was (and I'm convinced that this could help other people in getting in contact to the device):

  • Installed tuya app
  • input some one time mail account and created cloud account with it
  • input some false family name and geolocation
  • selected a 5G network and got error message that 5G is not supported
    ** but then you can paste the vtrust-flash SSID with password
  • item then connected to tuya-convert and I quickly disconnected smarthome from network
  • item began to flash
  • unfortunately then I got some issue with networking (don't know what exactly occured)

Any ideas how to reactivate the device?

@evaluationevaluation
Copy link

just few more infos:

  • device flashed a bit
    ** found dumped original firmware and device-info.txt

after got contact via the app trick I executed "curl http://10.42.42.42" and "curl http://10.42.42.42/flash3"
Did the same with the other plug if I remember well

@spock64
Copy link
Contributor

spock64 commented Feb 24, 2019 via email

@evaluationevaluation
Copy link

made my day!!! thought it was bricked but it's waiting for me to type in WIFI credentials by opening an Access Point... (and I already began to search my rubber hammer :) )

@erichegit
Copy link

For my Teckin SP22 the configuration Blitzwolf SHP2 is not working at all 👎
But the configuration Teckin (52) works fine.

If there wouldn`t be a much to high Voltage of 280 V (230V should be fine)

How can you manually adjust it?
Or how do you get correct Voltage values?
Wrong V results in wrong Power,...

@servidge
Copy link

How can you manually adjust it?
Or how do you get correct Voltage values?
Wrong V results in wrong Power,...

A little bit of hardware or an unpatched Plug is helpful.
The steps are described in the wiki https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/Power-Monitoring-Calibration

@Frankster-NL
Copy link

I managed to open my first Teckin SP22 and the inside is fully similar to the photos in the first post of this thread. I now have a very noobish question; can I simply solder the wires to the main board or do I have to desolder the tywe2s first?
Reading this thread gives some conflicting messages...

@meingraham
Copy link
Collaborator

Looking at write-ups for flashing (regardless of firmware), it looks like you can flash "in place" without removing the module. Search teckin sp22 flash and see how others are going about it.

@Aterfax
Copy link

Aterfax commented Aug 6, 2019

I managed to open my first Teckin SP22 and the inside is fully similar to the photos in the first post of this thread. I now have a very noobish question; can I simply solder the wires to the main board or do I have to desolder the tywe2s first?
Reading this thread gives some conflicting messages...

#3950 (comment)

You can flash in place using any of the available methods based around the Sonoff Tasmota stuff above.

e.g.
https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert

@meingraham
Copy link
Collaborator

Tuya-Convert - depending on the "newness" of your device. Newer devices are coming with patched Tuya firmware which disables the Tuya-Convert OTA flashing option.

@DonStefano
Copy link

Tuya-Convert - depending on the "newness" of your device. Newer devices are coming with patched Tuya firmware which disables the Tuya-Convert OTA flashing option.

How can I find out which firmware version is installed without using the Chinese software?

@meingraham
Copy link
Collaborator

@DonStefano

It's a Catch22. To see what Tuya version is on the device you have to connect to their app. However, if you connect to their app, it will upgrade to the latest Tuya firmware without asking... thus no longer able to use Tuya-Convert.

The best way to know if Tuya-Convert works is to try it on your device right out of the box. If it displays nothing bu a never ending string of periods ..............., then it has the patched Tuya firmware.

Mike

@SynAckFin
Copy link

@meingraham
I've recently bought a Tuya thermostat and it uses SSL to communicate with the tuya servers so I assume this is what the newer firmware is doing.
I looked at modifying the OTA scripts to handle this but unfortunately the SSL connection uses a pre-shared key and without that key there isn't anything I can do.
If I knew where I could get a copy of the firmware I might be able to extract the key and get the OTA scripts working again.

@meingraham
Copy link
Collaborator

@SynAckFin @DonStefano

Well, there's recent activity as of late last night that there may be some progress on Tuya-Convert which can circumvent the patched Tuya firmware. Some work left to do to update documentation and installation procedures. That should be ready soon.

Having said that, there are also some users reporting that some newer versions of the Teckin SP22 are coming with a WR2 WiFi module which is based on an RTL8710BN chip (i.e., NOT ESP82xx)! The Teckin SP22 also comes branded as BlitzWolf BW-SHP2 and HomeCube SP1.

Finally, for any ESP82xx based device, once it is in programming mode, the firmware that is on-board can be downloaded (i.e., backed up).

Mike

@Frankster-NL
Copy link

@meingraham any hint on where I can find that new version? The tuya-convert GitHub does not indicate anything on this...

@meingraham
Copy link
Collaborator

@Frankster-NL

Some work left to do to update documentation and installation procedures. That should be ready soon.

I would think that there should be something ready by the beginning of the week.

I did see that the current process took more that one attempt to finally complete successfully and that so far light bulbs are still not being flashed. This sounds reminiscent of the original work. It took a bit of refinement. This will probably take a bit of time to "smooth out".

@DonStefano
Copy link

That looks promising. I will prepare the hardware during weekend that I can try soon after release. I have to find out if they have the wrong Wifi module so I can send them back in case.

@baldfox
Copy link

baldfox commented Sep 21, 2019

For those of you looking to flash teckin SP22, here's what I did to get mine working with OTA convert 2!
some pointers:

  1. to put it in pairing mode, i plugged it in (the light was off) and I held it down for about 6 seconds... the light was blinking blue and off, not red and blue (I tried many times with red and blue flashing but it wouldn't work for some reason).

  2. I followed this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_IZEa9JcC8
    I also manually installed libssl-dev

  3. I left my original tuya convert folder and just opened a new folder on the raspberry pi...

  4. I cloned this repository into it:
    https://github.com/M4dmartig4n/tuya-convert

Follow the instructions in the vid...

  1. The lights went out on the teckin SP22 and i thought it had messed up, but it just worked. You need to be patient.

Then I proceeded to flash using the curl commands...
Hopefully this helps, it's not the cleanest instructions, but it worked for me. My bricked SP22 is now in Home Assistant :)

@ddppddpp
Copy link

there's a working fork for all your sp22 ;-) https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert/issues/273

@DonStefano
Copy link

@DonStefano

It's a Catch22. To see what Tuya version is on the device you have to connect to their app. However, if you connect to their app, it will upgrade to the latest Tuya firmware without asking... thus no longer able to use Tuya-Convert.

The best way to know if Tuya-Convert works is to try it on your device right out of the box. If it displays nothing bu a never ending string of periods ..............., then it has the patched Tuya firmware.
Thank you Mike!

Today I was able to flash all my 4 Teckin SP22 bought 2 Weeks ago from Amazon.de

Cheers,
Stefan

@rafuz
Copy link

rafuz commented Oct 6, 2019

Tuya convert also works with Slitinto SP202, even with new firmware.

@krjan02
Copy link

krjan02 commented Oct 19, 2020

@Clooney82, did you find a non-destructive way to open them up?

yes, i successfully opened it without destroying, just left some minor marks.

I used a flat screw driver and some opening picks.

@Frankster-NL
Copy link

If I may suggest something; opening the SP22 is very easy if you use a rubber hammer. Simply hit (not too hard, but harder than you think) the glued rim from the side. After a few blows you will see both parts separating. It leaves no marks whatsoever.

@devTechi
Copy link

@Frankster-NL

that really works, just did it 😃

Sign up for free to join this conversation on GitHub. Already have an account? Sign in to comment
Labels
awaiting feedback Action - Waiting for response or more information enhancement Type - Enhancement that will be worked on
Projects
None yet
Development

No branches or pull requests