mySQM-3D_Anemometer

FROM: https://github.com/CBaker007/mySQM-3D_Anemometer/

BY: Christopher Baker (CBaker007 on GitHub)

LICENSE: Creative Commons - Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike (BY-NC-SA)

WHAT: A 3D printed Anemometer based on the design from mySQM+ DIY SQM Weather Station on Sourceforge.

ATTRIBUTE: This is a re-work of the design by Robert Brown found on SourceForge: https://sourceforge.net/projects/mysqmproesp32/files/Wind%20Speed%20Sensor%20Anemometer/mySQMPROESP-3DPRINTER/

These 3D printed parts are released into the public domain and also follow the copyright indicated in the mySQM+ DIY Weather Station found on Sourceforge: "COPYRIGHT RESTRICTIONS The schematic, firmware and other code and ideas are released into the public domain. Users are free to implement these for their personal use, but may NOT sell projects based on (or derived from) this project for commercial gain. 1. You cannot sell kitsets or assembled units to others 2. You cannot copy the design and code and make your own version to sell to others, even if you make some code changes or change pin designations 3. You cannot use these designs and code ideas to make your own controller and sell versions of those to others"

Due to non-commercial use, this isn't really public domain or CC0. Therefore, I believe the correct Creative Commons license, and what I am using for this repository, is "Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike", aka BY-NC-SA. (More info: https://creativecommons.org/)

Coding for the Anemometer will be based on my code integrated into my existing DIY Weather Station, which will be made available on my GitHub in the near future when integration is complete. Should work fine with the mySQM+ DIY SQM Weather Station code too as all critical dimensions remained the same on my re-work.

Main Reasons for Re-Work: A. Don't like using glue on PETG parts. Not reliable from my experience. All parts screw together with internal threads or screws. B. Wanted to be able to take it apart for repair or updates. Original relies on press fit for bearing and made assembly/disassembly difficult. C. Wanted to make the rotating assembly fixed vertically so it could not move up/down.

NOTES:

• Followed original instructions and non-3D parts list as a guide.
• All the original parts should fit and work, minus possibly the Hall Effect Sensor may not mount in the slot in my design (taller/wider??). You would have to mount it as done in the original design.
• Purchased all parts in US from Amazon with the following specifications/notes/links:
  • Bearing: The key specification is this is a 6004 bearing which is a common size. I purchased a 2RS model (rubber seal on top and bottom) as specified in the orginal guide but did not like the friction it created. While not as good of seal to keep water and dirt out, I ended up buying a ZZ model (steel seal on top and bottom). Much less friction. PGN - 6004-ZZ Shielded Ball Bearing - C3-20x42x12 - Lubricated - Chrome Steel https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWZ48SK/
  • Hall Effect Magnetic Sensor: I could not find the "Keyes-024" model on Amazon though there are many other brands. The originally spec'd model offers a digital and analog signal output and runs on 3.3V. The one I purchased only has the required digital output and runs on 3.3V or 5.0V. My design has a holder for this sensor. There are many other models on Amazon. HiLetgo Hall Effect Magnetic Sensor Module 3144E A3144 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBE2XIR/
  • Cable Gland: I did not use a pre-wired bulkhead connnector. Instead I used a waterproof cable gland size PG7 and some tape. I already have a set of assorted sizes. Many PG7 cable glands are available on Amazon, but here is one example (make sure you get size PG7), looks like the threads are long enough (4 mm needed as I recall, check STL): BouPower 20Pcs Nylon Cable Gland Waterproof IP68 Adjustable Cable Connectors Joints with Gaskets https://www.amazon.com/BouPower-Waterproof-Adjustable-Connectors-Gaskets/dp/B08QZ97C5B/
  • Magnets: I already had a supply of magnets but they are readily available on Amazon. Personally I like the assortment packs which are more, but I use them for other projects. One example of a small pack of 6x3mm magnets on Amazon: TRYMAG Refrigerator Magnets 45 Pcs, Small Round Disc Fridge Magnets https://www.amazon.com/TRYMAG-Refrigerator-Multi-Use-Cylinder-Whiteboard/dp/B09MRMXMCW

3D Printing NOTES

• All Items printed with 5 walls, at 30% infill, using PETG.
• Supports:
  • "Base - Top" enabled for threads only, removed for outside overhangs. Printed with threads on top.
  • "Base - Bottom" enabled with supports removed for the outside overhang and inside sensor holder. Be sure to flip so square base is down.
  • "Hub - Arms" printed with cup opening facing down with supports.
  • "Hub - Main" printed with supports and arm openenings down.
  • "Hub - Top" and all "Hub - Spacers" printed without supports and widest part down.
• "Hub - Spacer 1" goes in Hub at the top before the bearing.
• "Hub - Spacer 2" goes in hub after the bearing, before the magnet holder (LeverArm).
• "Hub - Spacer 3" goes between the screw threads of the "Base - Top" and "Base - Bottom" with the wider part facing the "Base - Bottom". Locks the bearing in place when top and bottom tightened together.
• The "LeverArmFinal" is taken from the original design.

CAD Files (Again, shared as attribute required, non-commercial, share-alike.)

• The Base (top and bottom) were done in Fusion 360 and the .f3d files are available on this GitHub reposoitory if you wish to re-work things for your use.
  The .STL files for printing are already on respository.
• The remaining files were developed in TinkerCAD. You must create a free account if you want to rework them there. (They don't allow any CAD export and the transfer to Fusion 360 isn't working for me.) The .STL files for printing are in this respository.