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Potential new board rev #24
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ST-Link nor openocd seem to pick up anything at all :( Markings on the main chip:
Which seems to be https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Other-Processors-and-Microcontrollers-MCUs_CKS-CKS32F030K6U6_C556562.html |
At first glance it looks like a cheaper replacement, I double check and re-did the soldering as I was not 100% happy with my first attempt. openocd still didn't seem to be able to unlock it, but perhaps it wasn't locked so I attempted to flash it.
It manages to erase it but flashing is not successful :( |
Switched to a raspberry pi so I can run a newer version of stlink, I was using macOS be fore:
It now at least identifies the chip, so that's some progress. Different error when trying to flash:
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It's says V1.1 on the label (which I haven't noticed before). I went to swap this one for one in the older style box with the oldest manufacturing date I could find in the store, it is also already the new revsion :( 2204 -> CKS chip (white pastic stopper on box, newer wall brackets with gray plastic) |
Managed to find an older style one, doesn't look like the 4 number code on the labels have any baring to whats inside, as the lucky one had 2224 on it so newer than the 2204 one 🤷 That one flashed without issue after i unlocked it with openocd like my other ones so it definitely looks like the other style ones are incompatible. Both seem to use CKS variants of the STM32 though. |
I was also getting the new model. |
After further investigation I found out tha SWD was disabled in the firmware and that was why chipid returned 0x0000. To activate BOOT0 cut the connection between the two pins marked with a red circle. Check with an ohm meter to be sure that they are connected. The lower pin is GND and the upper one is the BOOT0 pin. I used a sharp knife to cut the PCB trace. When the trace is open solder a wire to the BOOT0 pin: And the other end to 3.3V (I did solder it on the back side of the pcb): After that follow the flashing guide from @sjorge with unlocking with openocd first and then write. Do not forget to backup the original firmware first :) When flashing is done connect BOOT0 pin back to GND Thank You @mjuhanne and @sjorge for all the job on this project! |
Wow you got it working! I ended up erm playing roulette with 2 IKEA stores to find a old one :) This extra info should probably end up in the README.md of the main repo I think. Both the openocd unlock step and how flash the newer revisions. |
It took me one week of trial and error and investigation :) |
This is awesome!! Thank you for your work! |
Is there anyone here that could compare my original firmware with an older version? I am not sure if I have broken something or if it is a new revision in other matters too but the motor isn't moving as it should.... |
I flashed back the original dump and the board is not detected by the esp. Is it possible that openocd or the dump did something to the firmware? |
Are you sure it’s back to normal booting?I guess and easy way to test with be dumped fw and ikea zigbee board attached.~ sjorgeOn 22 Jul 2023, at 12:30, pannlala ***@***.***> wrote:
I flashed back the original dump and the board is not detected by the esp. Is it possible that openocd or the dump did something to the firmware?
Do I need to protect the flash again after writing?
—Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.You are receiving this because you were mentioned.Message ID: ***@***.***>
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I flashed the 0.87-sleep-5rpm again and this is the esp log when pressing a button: Has other changes been done to the communication? |
Just an update... My conclusion is that the CKS32F i damaged or some surrounding electronics. I have compared all connections with the schematics. I will do some further investigation and if possible replace the CKS32F... |
I got two and flashed them about 1,5 months ago, after some protection issues I did managed to flash them. I picked up one more last Monday and finally had time to take it apart and try and flash, it looks like it's a new reversion.
The little brown cap (I think) is now a different style and the main chip hooked up to the IO headers is also way smaller.
You can recognize them in the box if the little mounting brackets have a gray plastic bit instead of transparent.
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