Cura machine settings Start G-Code for UBL Mesh activation. GD32 UBL ProUI bin

[npaisnel]

I found in an article some where or YouTube Video that it was necessary to use custom G-code in the Cura machine start code settings when using Alex firmware for my Aquila.

It was the s:

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes G29; Auto Bed Level // can be M420 S1 if don't want to probe before each print G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish

Is there an equivalent to the G29 or M420 S1 for UBL?

G29 L0
G29 A

or does the menu system/ firmware on the Aquila take care of activating the Mesh ?

Sorry for these basic questions..only had this printer a week or two..and pretty new to all of this

[classicrocker883]

I use M420 S1 L0 Z10
S1: enables
S0: disables

L0: loads slot 0. L1 would be slot 1, ect...

Z10: that is the fade height, 10mm. so after 10 it returns to normal as if without bed leveling enabled.

I dont use G29 at all in my start G-code for UBL versions. I suppose you could if you wanted it to do a tilt with G29 J1 - J1 for 3 point, or J2 for 4 point tilt.

G29 A i think is more for the BLT - Bilinear bed leveling version. and G29 P1 will start building a mesh.

[classicrocker883]

this is your code for easier to read

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G29; Auto Bed Level // can be M420 S1 if don't want to probe before each print
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish

here is a start code I used for cura

;START
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set extruder temp
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temp
M105
G1 Z15 F6000 ;move up
G28 ;Home
G1 X0 Y0 F5000; move home
G1 Z40 ; move up to wipe
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}
M105 ; checks up to temp
M300 S440 P300 ; beep
G4 S10 ; pause to wipe
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

;END
M300 S440 P100 ; beep
M300 S440 P100 ; beep
M104 S0
M140 S0
M107
G92 E0
G1 E-20 F300 ;Retract the filament
G91
G1 Z15 F6000
G90
G28 X0
G1 Y200 F3000 ; present
G4 S2
M300 S440 P350 ; beep
M84

;EXTRUDER START
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle
G1 Y135 F1500
G1 Y140 F1500
G1 X2.3 F5000
G92 E0
G1 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z15 F5000 ;move up
M300 S440 P100 ; beep
G4 S5

[npaisnel]

Thank you
I will go through each and compare, once todays job out the way….Just fitting antibacklash and 8mm twin leads and single Mk8 extruder to a GeeeTech i3 C now making it a ‘B’

[classicrocker883]

if I may make some suggestions..

dual lead screws are great. I do recommend also upgrade the motor if you are using only 1 motor. otherwise dual Z motors are the way to go.

and check out this video here regarding backlash and Z lead screws.

I followed the same kind of setup and well didn't have issues before, but I can see it working and it is very smooth now! having oldham coupling along with anti backlash is a nice upgrade. especially putting them upside down like in the video I think is a very good call.

I should post a picture of my Aquila it has come a long way from original.

also you swapped a dual extruder to a single? I'm sure there is good reason for that, because I would think having dual extruder would be great if u can support it.

[classicrocker883]

oh I also wanted to say, have you noticed any other motors hot to touch. Adjusting the VOLTAGE reference, which is on the mainboard itself, will help that if you didn't already know.

but I recommend upgrading the motors, especially Y axis. 42-34 stepper motor is much too small moving a heavy bed, it works too hard and gets too hot. decrease voltage does lower the temp, but too low and you will get skipped steps or ringing the faster you print. I upgraded to 42-48 and in hindsight it should be 42-40 like the extruder motor. same for the X axis motor. Since I upgraded to Direct Drive, it ran hot. so what I did was also upgrade that to a 42-40, because the gantry felt very heavy. I'm sure you heard the heavier the direct drive is the worse it is printing fast. well that is true if the motor cannot keep up. so instead of like trying to lower the weight of the gantry, I just beef up the motor size and all is well. I can now print faster the heavier it is with no issue, no matter how heavy it is... as long as the motor can keep up that is the key. it's probably not well known out there. probably no one else has discovered that - it's an out-of-box thinking. why lower the weight or mass of the extruder when you can just increase the motor power? it is effectively the same solution. well you heard it first! lol