From 30b0fa983e85fd5a58c8a91a324a87e2f3308673 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Brandur Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2023 16:19:09 -0700 Subject: [PATCH] Add draft for John Muir Trail --- content/markdown/john-muir-trail/intro.md | 3 + content/markdown/john-muir-trail/main.md | 311 +++++++++++++++++++ content/stylesheets-modular/tailwind.css | 54 ++++ content/stylesheets-modular/tailwind.min.css | 2 +- pages/john-muir-trail.tmpl.html | 41 +++ 5 files changed, 410 insertions(+), 1 deletion(-) create mode 100644 content/markdown/john-muir-trail/intro.md create mode 100644 content/markdown/john-muir-trail/main.md create mode 100644 pages/john-muir-trail.tmpl.html diff --git a/content/markdown/john-muir-trail/intro.md b/content/markdown/john-muir-trail/intro.md new file mode 100644 index 00000000..c303875c --- /dev/null +++ b/content/markdown/john-muir-trail/intro.md @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +On the trailing edge of summer 2023, a ragtag band set out to hike the [John Muir Trail](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Muir_Trail) (JMT), a long-distance push over the Sierra Nevada in California, starting in the Yosemite area and ending with a climb over Mount Whitney, the tallest peak in the lower 48. An end-to-end run typically takes three weeks. Being a little more time-constrained we were planning to do only a part of it in two, although ended early even on that more modest project (read on). + +The John Muir shouldn't be confused with the [Pacific Crest Trail](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pacific_Crest_Trail) (PCT), a much longer trail that runs the entire height of the United States' western coast, but over this part of California they're the same trail. As you're walking the JMT as a long-distance, lightness-obsessed, fit backpacker, it's not unusual to come across (and often be passed by) another breed of backpacker who is even _longer_-distance, even more lightness-obsessed, and even more fit, as they go about their 4 to 6 month walkabout. diff --git a/content/markdown/john-muir-trail/main.md b/content/markdown/john-muir-trail/main.md new file mode 100644 index 00000000..e9253d98 --- /dev/null +++ b/content/markdown/john-muir-trail/main.md @@ -0,0 +1,311 @@ +## Day 1 (#day-1) + +The best way to start any trip is with a flat tire. + +On the final stretch of the narrow road up to Vermillion Camp, windows open, we hear a sudden pop and the distinctive sound of air rushing out of a puncture at high speed. I had three seconds of ignorant bliss wondering what that sound was before it became the distinct sound of rubbery tread unambiguously signaling a flat. Being the only vehicle in a mile in any direction, there wasn't much question as to who it belonged to. + +Better yet, it's a rental. We're not even sure that there's a spare, let alone where to find it. It's a Jeep. Remember when the spare tire on a Jeep hung off the back door with zero ambiguity whatsoever on how to access it? That was then, this is 2023. The Jeep of today is an undifferentiated SUV that shares the same round look as every other SUV on the road. Ten minutes later with a lot of experimentation before someone finally decides to RTFM, we realize that the spare is mounted out of sight on the vehicle's undercarriage, and is manually winched down using a special access port hidden under a plastic button in the trunk. + +
+ +That's the bad news. The good is that there's literally no better time _ever_ to get a flat than when you're on vacation with your guy friends. A flat tire becomes a team building activity, with everyone pitching advice and labor. What was a somewhat worrying situation a few minutes ago becomes much more benign as between the five of us we manage to dredge from memory 95%+ of best practices for jacking a car and changing a tire with no help from Google. + +We finish with a lopsided vehicle (the spare isn't full sized), but one that's drivable, and we make our way into Vermillion, finding our campsite to be in a prime location on the shores of Lake Edison. + +
+ +
+ +This first day is for driving, acclimatization, and for some of us to get used to our equipment. I haven't been backpacking in a long time, and I'm mostly just in awe at how much technology as improved: + +* I'm carrying a full-sized freestanding tent that weighs only two pounds. Its even got UX features like poles and latch points that are color coordinated to maximize the ease in which it can be assembled. + +* I borrowed a modern air mattress. It has two separate levels of valve granularity that allow it to be easily inflated and deflated in two minutes each. It provides practically perfect insulation from the ground, so you don't even need a bottom layer on your sleeping cover. + +* I borrowed an REI-brand lightweight down quilt (a sleeping bag with no bottom layer). It's not only light, but can be jammed back into its stuff sack in under a minute, a job that used to take ~5 minutes on synthetic sleeping bags when I was a kid. Amazing. + +That night we stop in for dinner at Vermillion's small cafe, and are treated to some ludicrously large fajitas (this naming challenged by various members of our group as more of a quesidilla). We're overcharged for beer, but buy some anyway. It's our last opportunity to get freerunning water and power for a while. + +Another camper stops by our site in the morning and tells us that she's been coming here for decades and it's the first time in many years that Lake Edison looks full and beautiful. Drought conditions in California have meant that it's been a while since the area's been as pretty as this. + +We swim in the lake before leaving. The air is warm, but the water is still very cold. + +
+ +
+ +
+ +## Day 2 (#day-2) + +The next day, after a hearty breakfast we drive back out of the campground to find parking along the feeder road. For the next two hours we search for a new freeform wilderness campsite for the night. We coin the term "Farinateering", which roughly means "bushwhacking in circles carrying heavy objects for many hours before eventually arriving at a destination that was along a well-established path all along", and would've taken less than 30 minutes to walk to under trivially easy conditions. _Too_ trivially easy in fact. None of us are interested in the easy way out. + +We decide to pitch along the shores of Doris Lake, midway between Lake Edison and the Mono Hot Springs. + +
+ +
+ +
+ +After many hours of exhausting Farinateering, Umur, a wise Microsoft executive, finds the only wise course of action available, and takes a midday nap on an unusually ergonomically-sound rock. + +
+ +Rob investigates the feasibility of escaping the lake via bouldering a sheer granite slab. It is kind of hard actually, pun intended. + +
+ +I find my most epic tent pitch of the entire trip. If you're going to visit Beverly Hills rock, please make sure to pick up a guest pass at the guard booth, pleb. This is top dollar lakefront property after all. + +
+ +We hike into the Mono Hot Springs campground for dinner and one last resupply. One half of our party gets lost on the way and runs into a large rattlesnake in the rocks, but isn't overly concerned about it. + +Once reaching the campground every one of us orders one last burger (except Umur, who orders a blackened fish fillet). Our waiter is an incredibly pleasant European from Prague that calls us all "sir". We finish late and walk the mile back to camp by the light of our headlamps. + +
+ +
+ +## Day 3 (#day-3) + +Day 3 is really day 1, where the trip gets real and we start hiking long distances. We say goodbye to Umur, the car, and heavy luxuries like our cast iron pan, camp chairs, and dignity, and get hiking. + +For the first time, we realize just how heavy our packs are, how hot California is, and how far we still have to go. I take a sunburn on the lips that'll last all week. + +
+ +Farina starts to say "exogenous" a lot, a word that I haven't heard since high school science courses. We all pretend that we're speaking the same language, but secretly, none of us know what the hell he's talking about. + +That is, until he jumps into the first creek we find, fully clothed. None of the rest of us had expressed any intent to do so, but realizing the ingenuity of the move in helping to conserve our own internal water sources, we all followed suit. + +
+ +
+ +The day is spent hiking from the road up Bear Creek Trail to the point where it intersects with the JMT (John Muir Trail) and PCT (Pacific Crest Trail), which are functionally the same thing at this point. We camp by a creek shortly after, starting to get used to the dramatically reduced number of people we're now seeing, with our only neighbors being a couple evening headlamps visible in the distance one campsite over. + +
+ +## Day 4 (#day-4) + +Day 4 is our first major push of the entire trip, planned at 15 miles, but more like 20 by the end of the day. We're still getting used to sleeping on the trail, but spirits are high. + +
+ +
+ +
+ +We go up over Seldon Pass, passing by a number of lakes -- Marshall Lake and Marie Lake on the way up, followed by Heart Lake and Sallie Keys Lake on the other side. + +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +We eat lunch at the top of the pass, meeting Keith, a PCTer who we've been intermittently passing and being passed by all day, and another fellow from Glassgow. After a previous bad experience with marmots Rob doesn't like them, and spends as much time chasing them away from his pack as he does eating food. + +And now back down the other side. + +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +Rob picked up his vintage 80s pack at a thrift store and despite being heavier than anything made in the last 40 years, it's been a huge hit on the trail. Everyone we speak to for more than a few minutes comments on it. Often it takes less than time than that, and sometimes it's the _only_ thing someone notices about our party. + +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +That was Heart Lake. Next up, Sallie Keyes Lakes. + +
+ +
+ +
+ +There are many water crossings along the trail. We quickly learn that although it's often possible to use stones and logs to get to the other side without getting your feet wet, it's just as often _not_ possible. Some hikers carried a pair of sandals which they'd change in and out of at every one of these, but in the spirit of exogenism, all four of us would skip that small civility and wade straight in. + +Two days into the walking the JMT I realized that I'd internally redefined the word "dry" away from its traditional sense to mean something more like "not having walked through a creek in the last half hour". + +
+ +
+ +At the other end of the lake we pass a group of hikers going the other way who tell us that we're in for an "epic downhill". Having just traversed a pass we thought we were largely done for the day, so it didn't immediately register. We were indeed in for an _epic_ downhill involving miles worth of switchbacks down to Shooting Star Meadow. + +We hadn't realized it going in, but this would be our longest stretch without easy access to water. Luckily it was on the downhill for us, but we pass a number of very thirsty people on the way up. + +
+ +We pass a fallen giant that someone's helpfully analyzed as 186 years old as they were clearing a way through it for the path. + +
+ +
+ +It was a long day and we arrive at our campsite along the gushing Piute River in the last hour of daylight. We laud ourselves on almost 20 miles walked when a guy comes in who tells us that he's effectively hiked the same distance that we did in two days in one -- almost 30 miles. We don't wanna hear it -- go find your own campsite! + +Golden hour out here is tremendously, with the valleys having already fallen into mostly darkness, but with the final rays of the sun still illuminating the mountainsides. Here's the Pavilion Dome, which toured above us. + +
+ +I walk around at night a little and manage to find a scorpion, albeit one of modest size. One of the surprises of the Sierra Nevada for me is how little fauna there is of any size compared to the Rockies. In the Rockies it's not uncommon to come across larger wildlife like bighorn sheep or various members of the deer family, but at all times the ground is teeming with all kinds of insects and arachnids, whereas here I've mostly only come across mosquitoes and blackflies (which the Rockies also have plenty of). TBH, I don't miss the giant wolf spiders much. + +
+ +## Day 5 (#day-5) + +Our big job of the day will be to make it across the San Joaquin, which in previously years had a bridge across it, but one that was destroyed this season by higher than normal water flows. + +The JMT eventually crosses _back_ over the San Joaquin, so Farina had originally plotted us on an "up and over" route that involved avoiding the initial crossing and instead scrambling a cliffside and descending further up the trail. This option would've been a bit of a slog though, so we'd been talking to hikers going the other to ask after what they'd done to get across, and the nearly universal reply is that they'd forded the river a little downstream from where the bridge was out, saying that it was possible to find places where the water was about thigh deep. + +Someone had thoughtfully built a cairn near a good crossing point + +
+ +A team of National Forest Service employees had set up camp in the area so they could work towards clearing the remains of the bridge. Eager to demonstrate their bonafides as federal employees, they were unfriendly to a degree bordering on absurdity, refusing to acknowledge even basic greetings, and casting dangerous looks in our direction if we looked like we might be getting too close. They'd littered the area with sneering signs to make it clear that nothing resembling basic humanity should be expected under _any_ circumstances. + +Your tax dollars at work. + +
+ +The rest of the day was spent hiking up along Evolution Valley, considered by many to be the most beautiful spot in Kings Canyon National Park, a claim that I can endorse. + +
+ +
+ +
+ +Our pitch that night was one of the most picturesque, sleeping under the shadow of The Hermit, a 12,000+ foot peak. There were a couple very nice campsites, but the mosquitoes were quite bad, so we ended up pitching away from meadows on a long granite slab. Unfortunately that didn't do much to deter the mosquitoes, so we ate quickly and had an early bedtime. + +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +## Day 6 (#day-6) + +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +TODO + +I hike without poles or microspikes, something that used to be perfectly normal for almost all of human history, but which has become quite unusual in the last few decades. In the hut, I'm told for 47th time this trip that without these critical tools I'm a dead man. You hear me? DEAD. It is simply not humanly possible to cross a patch of 50 feet of slushy snow unaided. Realizing that I'm speaking to true-blooded Californians, who go into lockdown and are prone to call the National Guard in extreme weather situations, like if the perpetual sun disappears behind a cloud and droplets of water start falling from the sky (a highly unusual atmospheric effect that other states might call "light rain"), I nod solemnly and tell them that I've accepted my fate. I understand that I have no chance to survive and could they please say a nondemoninational prayer for me once they reach the other side. + +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +Now that gravity's on our side, some members of our crew find shortcuts down the mountain. + +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +## Day 7 (#day-7) + +Rain. + +Moody day. + +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +Bridge. + +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +## Day 8 (#day-8) + +
+ +
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b/pages/john-muir-trail.tmpl.html @@ -0,0 +1,41 @@ +{{- template "layouts/pages/main.tmpl.html" . -}} + +{{- define "title" -}} +The John Muir Trail{{.TitleSuffix}} +{{- end -}} + +{{- define "stylesheets" -}} +{{- end -}} + +{{- define "content" -}} + +
+
+

The John Muir Trail

+
+ +
+ {{IncludeMarkdown .Ctx "content/markdown/john-muir-trail/intro.md"}} +
+ +
+ {{IncludeMarkdown .Ctx "content/markdown/john-muir-trail/main.md"}} +
+
+ +{{- end -}} \ No newline at end of file