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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
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<title>We Ate Taiwan: 98年 3月 7日 – Sightseeing</title>
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<h1><a href="index.html">We Ate Taiwan</a></h1>
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<h1 class="tyfont-size-h3">98年 3月 7日 – Sightseeing</h1>
<figure class="tymedia">
<img alt="Longshan Temple" data-lazyimage="resources/photos/sightseeing_large.jpg" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">The animated spiritual life inside Longshan temple.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Today is laundry day. Laundry presents a unique problem here. Monica’s parents have a washing machine but not a dryer. I’ve noticed that this is common outside the US. The problem is humidity. It is usually around 90%. In that environment, nothing will dry. Even in my bone-dry New York City apartment, it can take 24 hours to dry a pair of jeans without a dryer.</p>
<p>Monica’s parents have established a “dry room” in their apartment which is basically a large closet (or small room) furnished with a dehumidifier. However, the dry room has a limited amount of space (and it’s already full of their belongings). We wash almost everything (I omit my jeans) and then hang it to dry outside. The clothing we need right away gets moved to the dry room.</p>
<figure class="tymedia float-left zoomable" id="glass">
<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/glass.jpg" alt="Glass artist at the jade market" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">Glass artist at the jade market. <a href="#glass" class="zoomin tybutton">Zoom In</a> <a href="#_" class="zoomout tybutton">Zoom Out</a></figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Meanwhile, since it has been quite cold on our trip and I am not planning to wash my jeans, I need another pair of pants. I also still need a bathing suit. Our first order of business is therefore shopping. There are many stores around where we are staying since it is the center of town (more or less) and it will be easy to find what I need. While we are out we also stop to browse the weekend jade market which is set up in a parking lot on the other side of Da An Park. The jade market is much like a craft fair. There is quite a bit hand-made jewelry (jade and other semiprecious materials), furniture, artwork, pottery, wood and leather crafts, tea, and even one man creating glass figurines using an open flame at his display table. Souvenirs and other trinkets are everywhere, but there are also many fine items as well. Outside the market, I cannot resist a slice of cōngyóu bǐng with egg from a street vendor. It drips grease and is wicked good.</p>
<figure class="tymedia float-right zoomable" id="yilingyi">
<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/101.jpg" alt="Taipei 101 reaching into the clouds" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">Taipei 101 reaching into the clouds. <a href="#yilingyi" class="zoomin tybutton">Zoom In</a> <a href="#_" class="zoomout tybutton">Zoom Out</a></figcaption>
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<p>After shopping, we travel further east toward <a href="http://www.taipei-101.com.tw/index_en.htm">Taipei 101</a>. The weather is still terrible but I may not have too many other opportunities to visit the tower. Taipei 101 is located away from the center of town, so it stands almost alone with only low buildings surrounding it. Perhaps that makes it seem even taller. It is a unique design which is supposed to be inspired by bamboo but it really reminds me of the trunk of a palm tree. Regardless, it is a remarkable structure that is only partly visible at the moment. The top half is embedded in clouds.</p>
<p>The only way to access the main structure is to either work in one of the offices or purchase a ticket to the observation level. The public entrance to the observation level is on the top floor of a 5 story luxury mall that grows out of the base of the building. Dolce & Gabbana, Cartier, Louis Vitton, and other nearly empty high-end stores occupy each floor. The lowest-end establishment on the 4th floor is Haagen-Dazs. At the ticket counter for the observation level, Monica asks the attendant what can be seen from the top floor today. Visibility is currently zero, but the agent invites us to go up anyway and see the world’s largest wind damper. We decline. After checking out the posters, peeking at the gift shop and admiring the visual identity design created for Taipei 101, we are off to meet with Monica’s old college friends.</p>
<figure class="tymedia float-right zoomable" id="sunyatsen">
<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/sunyatsen.jpg" alt="The Sun Yat-Sen Memorial" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">The Sun Yat-Sen Memorial. <a href="#sunyatsen" class="zoomin tybutton">Zoom In</a> <a href="#_" class="zoomout tybutton">Zoom Out</a></figcaption>
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<p>Thankfully, it has stopped raining. Our walk to the meeting site takes us past a weekend street fair. The fair has apparently been established in hopes of spurring the sluggish consumer economy. Things in Taiwan are not much better than the are in the US. Further down a beautiful section of RenAi Road, we pass the <a href="http://www.answers.com/topic/sun-yat-sen">Dr. Sun Yat-sen</a> <a href="http://www.yatsen.gov.tw/en/">Memorial</a>. The memorial itself seems low-key for a monument to what Monica describes as “Taiwan’s George Washington” but the memorial is surrounded by a very attractive garden. We pause only briefly for photos because we are late.</p>
<p>We meet Monica’s old classmates at a tea house called Salut. It is a bigger, nicer version of the Tea & Sympathy in the West Village. It is an English-style establishment serving traditional afternoon tea as well as a wide selection of eastern and western teas and accompanying foods. I order my favorite tea, Yunnam. Monica enjoys Ceylon with milk and a quiche.</p>
<p>It would be difficult enough for me to join in conversation with Monica’s friends in English since they are all (a) women and (b) old friends. That they speak Chinese just makes it impossible. My tea is served in a very fancy and very English tea pot with a gold-rimmed cup and saucer. Everything here looks, smells and tastes quite good.</p>
<p>After an hour of listening to the conversation I take my leave. Monica remains to continue visiting while I make use of the time to see some of the sights I have on my list. I walk briskly to the nearest MRT station and hop a train to <a href="http://sinotour.com/tourguide/taipei/longshan-temple.html">Longshan Temple</a>, one of the places which my guidebook recommends. A 20 minute ride on the crowded rush-hour train takes me there.</p>
<p>Longshan Temple is a large, multi-denominational house of worship located about a block from the MRT station. It is a popular tourist attraction as well as an active temple, so the place is a riot of people taking pictures, lighting incense, praying, and generally milling about. The whole place is festively decorated with paper lanterns and paper figures – most prominent are representations of the Ox in recognition of the new year. The fixed structure is also heavily ornamented with inscriptions and animal figures.</p>
<p>The temple is layered. There is the outer wall protecting a courtyard. Within the courtyard is a ring-like structure protecting an inner courtyard, within which is the central structure. I cannot see into the center for all the people. There must be a large number of people inside as well as outside, for from within issues bursts of occasional, loud, rhythmic chants. Candles, lights, and fires burn brightly all over the place. Tables hold offerings of food and flowers. Groups of people gather or queue at various points to pray and place incense. Many people simply pick a random empty spot and perform their rituals. Never have I visited a place of worship that was so vibrant and animated. I take many pictures but I know I’m failing to capture the nature of the place or my enjoyment in being there to observe.</p>
<div class="figure-grid tymargins-off">
<figure class="tymedia zoomable" id="chiang01">
<img alt="A view of the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial." data-lazyimage="resources/photos/chiangkaishek.jpg" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">A view of the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial. <a href="#chiang01" class="zoomin tybutton">Zoom In</a> <a href="#_" class="zoomout tybutton">Zoom Out</a></figcaption>
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<figure class="tymedia zoomable" id="chiang02">
<img alt="The view from the entrance of the Memorial" data-lazyimage="resources/photos/memorial.jpg" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">The view from the entrance of the Memorial. <a href="#chiang02" class="zoomin tybutton">Zoom In</a> <a href="#_" class="zoomout tybutton">Zoom Out</a></figcaption>
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<p>I leave just in time. The rain is starting again. I have some extra time before dinner so I decide to make one additional stop: the <a href="http://www.taiwan.com.au/Envtra/Taipei/report08.html">Chiang Kai-shek Memorial</a>. It is only three stops away on the MRT so I am there quickly. In comparison to the Sun Yat-sen Memorial, this one is huge. It consists of a palacial courtyard fronted by a large gate and bordered by three large structures. Two of the structures are cultural centers (a concert hall and a performance hall). The other building is the memorial itself. It is a bit like the Lincoln Memorial.</p>
<p>Up a large flight of stone steps is a cavernous hall with a bronze statue of <a href="http://www.answers.com/topic/chiang-kai-shek">the man himself</a>. He seems to be smiling as he looks out into the rain. I’ve gotten pretty wet just getting here but I’m glad to have seen this. Of all the things I’ve seen so far in Taipei, Longshan temple and this memorial seem the most “Chinese”. Chiang Kai-shek memorial is the first cultural landmark I’ve visited, and I wonder if I should have made time to visit others.</p>
<figure class="tymedia float-right">
<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/cha.jpg" alt="A photo of my tea noodles" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">My tea noodles.</figcaption>
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<p>Sightseeing is over for now. I hurry to meet up with Monica in time. My first solo excursion into Taipei is a success. I didn’t get lost. Now we will join Monica’s former New York City roommate (she moved back to Taiwan after finishing school in the US) for dinner. Sharon (her English name) and her sister take us to dinner at a place called (in English) “Cha for Tea”. This restaurant specializes in dishes made using tea. I have been looking forward to this since watching <a href="http://www.travelchannel.com/TV_Shows/Bizarre_Foods/Episodes_Travel_Guides/ci.Episode_Taiwan.map">an episode of Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern on the Travel Channel</a>. In addition to more black tea than could possibly be healthy, I enjoy a set meal (only 10 dollars!) of house salad, tea-flavored wontons in soup, jasmine tofu, green tea noodles with tomato (a bit like tea spaghetti and sauce), tea jelly, and chrysanthemum tea with Pu’er (about 5 servings of it). Everything is very good, although the tea flavor is not evident in every dish. This is not a high end establishment. It is part of a chain of restaurants; this particular franchise is located in a mall. However, I have no complaint. All the food was enjoyable and, for the price, it is a superb value.</p>
<p>After dinner, we tour the mall. However, in spite of all the tea, I am very tired. All the running around has depleted my reserves. Sharon’s sister drives us back to Monica’s parents’ apartment and we are soon back in bed.</p>
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<h2>Journal Entries</h2>
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<li><a href="98-03-01.html">98年 3月 1日 – Arrival</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-02.html">98年 3月 2日 – First Outings</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-03.html">98年 3月 3日 – Beef Noodles</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-04.html">98年 3月 4日 – Dànshuǐ</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-05.html">98年 3月 5日 – College</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-06.html">98年 3月 6日 – Yángmíngshān</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-07.html">98年 3月 7日 – Sightseeing</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-08.html">98年 3月 8日 – Běitóu</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-09.html">98年 3月 9日 – Shìlín</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-10.html">98年 3月 10日 – Huālián</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-11.html">98年 3月 11日 – Taroko Gorge</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-12.html">98年 3月 12日 – 101</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-13.html">98年 3月 13日 – A Taste of Home</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-14.html">98年 3月 14日 – Return Trip</a></li>
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<h2>About My Trip</h2>
<p>In 2009, my girlfriend and I visited her home country of Taiwan. During our two week vacation, I wrote daily notes of my experiences and together we took over a thousand photos. Those notes and photos have been compiled into this travel journal.</p>
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<p>© Copyright 2009—2020 by <a href="http://www.aaronpinero.com/">Aaron Pinero</a> except as noted.</p>
<p>Photographs may not be used in any other medium without permission. In most cases, we’d be glad to let you if you ask.</p>
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